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Travel By Sea

Antarctica

10–19 March 2024 · Round trip from Ushuaia, Argentina

A ten-day expedition voyage on the Ocean Endeavour, round trip from Ushuaia: out the Beagle Channel, across the Drake Passage twice, and four days on the Antarctic Peninsula, with the sea-kayaking program. Continental landings at Portal Point and Neko Harbour, the historic base at Port Lockroy, and a run through the Lemaire Channel. The farthest south was Petermann Island, at 65°10′S.

Expedition · By Sea

The Ocean Endeavour, Intrepid’s expedition ship

  • 10 days
  • ~1,490 nm
  • 65°10′S
  • 7 landings
  • Drake Passage ×2

The chart

A chart of the route. Each stop on it is a button that reads out its day and note, and the same stops are listed day by day after it.

Day by day

  1. Wind from the WNW, 8–23 kn, gusts 35, force 3–6 Waves 0.4–0.9 m, slight,open water nearby

    • Ushuaia, Argentina Embarked the Ocean Endeavour ~16:00 local; sailed out the Beagle Channel that evening.
  2. The highest wave was 40 feet tall, about 12 m; the heights below are the average of the biggest third.

    Wind from the W, 4–40 kn, gusts 51, force 2–8 Waves 1.3–6.3 m, high; swell from the WSW, 9 s

    • Beagle Channel → Drake Passage Leaving the Beagle Channel and heading south into the Drake.
    • Drake Passage Full sea day crossing the Drake.
  3. Wind from the E, 2–22 kn, gusts 30, force 1–6 Waves 0.3–1.7 m, moderate; swell from the WNW, 8 s,open water nearby

    • Charlotte Bay First morning in Antarctica. ~250 photos this day (biggest of the trip).
    • Portal Point First continental landing, Danco Coast.
  4. Wind from the ENE, 10–20 kn, gusts 26, force 3–5 Waves 0.5 m, smooth,open water nearby

    • Port Lockroy (Goudier Island / Jougla Point) Historic British base / 'Penguin Post Office'.
    • Damoy Point / Dorian Bay Afternoon landing on Wiencke Island.
  5. Wind from the ESE, 6–22 kn, gusts 29, force 2–6 Waves 0.4–1.5 m, moderate; swell from the NNW, 8 s,open water nearby

    • Pléneau Island South of the Lemaire Channel; iceberg alley.
    • Petermann Island Southernmost point of the trip: 65°10′S.
    • Lemaire Channel Evening transit north through the Lemaire.
  6. Wind from the ENE, 2–17 kn, gusts 24, force 1–5 Waves 0.3 m, smooth,open water nearby

    • Danco Island Errera Channel; gentoo colony up the ridge.
    • Errera Channel Midday cruising (~56 photos in 10 min).
    • Neko Harbour Continental landing in Andvord Bay; last landing of the trip.
  7. Wind from the ENE, 6–21 kn, gusts 29, force 2–5 Waves 0.8–2.7 m, rough; swell from the W, 9 s

    • Drake Passage (return) No geotagged photos (position approximate).
    • Drake Passage / Cape Horn approach No geotagged photos (position approximate).
  8. Wind from the W, 1–9 kn, gusts 13, force 1–3 Waves 0.1–2.0 m, moderate; swell from the SSW, 6 s,open water nearby

    • Ushuaia, Argentina Disembarked morning of March 19.

Key to the chart

  • Traced from photos
  • Estimated, no photo for a long stretch
  • A photo’s GPS fix
  • The ship
  • Port
  • Landing
  • Zodiac or kayak
  • Transit
  • At sea

The dates, the ship and the port come from booking emails, and the track from about 830 geotagged photos. The photos run out for a day and more at a time on the Drake Passage, and for the whole way home, so those crossings follow the usual shipping lanes and are dashed. Where a straight line between two photos would cross land, the route goes round by sea, as the boat did, and a photo taken ashore marks where the boat lay off.

Each day’s wind and sea are the models’, read for every hour on the water where the boat was then: the wind from ECMWF’s IFS, the waves from Météo-France’s MFWAM, through Open-Meteo.com (CC BY 4.0). Where a day says open water nearby, the boat lay at anchor or went ashore, in water calmer than the model’s, or was in a channel the wave model has as land, and the waves are the nearest open water’s, within 30 km; where the route is dashed, so is where they were read. A ferry’s crossing is read along the ferry. Generated using E.U. Copernicus Marine Service Information; doi.org/10.48670/moi-00017.